Quick video of the Massey Ferguson GC 1720 TLB Sub Compact Tractor.
Gravel, Winter GC-1720
About 12 years ago I constructed a 285 foot gravel drive down to my shop with a Massey Ferguson 1250. It was smooth enough to get cars, trucks, and trailers down with ease. Over the years I maintained it by keeping the crown cut and compaction of the travel lanes broken up. Last year the erosion of the left track outran my maintenance and it became a 4x4 only drive. I recently aquired a GC-1720 Sub-Compact Tractor to fix an maintain the property.
The first step in the revitalization of the drive way was to use a 5 foot rotary cutter to remove all the growth next to the driveway. That also required some some backhoe work to remove some of the larger root systems of bushes and trees.
I used a 4 ft box blade at a forward angle making 2-3 trips over the same area to break up the existing gravel. This process filled many of the pot holes and some of the left track. Areas that had not been washed out, the road-bond (Gravel / Fines) looked fresh with the vegetation removed.
With a box-blade, it just requires patience to get the ground broken up especially with a sub compact tractor. I was using a new Massey Ferguson GC-1720 TLB. Lesson's learned on the GC-1720 TLB below:
- 4 Ft Box Blade is the Max.
- 5 Ft Scraper Blade is ideal.
- 4 Ft Rotary Blade is ideal.
- Backhoe Float takes getting used to but it does wonders for flat ditches/trenches and for leveling fill. I really like it.
- No 3 Pt position control. This hasn't been an issue per say but took a day or so of getting used to. The 3 points works like a normal hydro spool. There is a down valve to help with controlling flow on downward action of the 3 point.
- The seat transition is hit or miss. Sometimes it does exactly what you intend and other times its a downright PIA.
- Fuel consumption is great. About 6 gallons for two days work.
- Backhoe removal is less than 10 minutes. Surprisingly easy and fast. Just watch where you put the hydro lines.
- PTO shaft has a plastic cover with 13MM (1/2") Screws that need to be removed to use the PTO.
Once the ground was un-compacted the box can be leveled and its easy to pull a full box wherever you need it. The GC 1720 doesn't have positional control but does have control of the lower speed. You just have to be careful with bringing the blade back up as it is always full speed.
I did ditch cutting by putting the box blade at a sharp angle and "driving the ditch". After cutting ditch areas down I used the front end loader to move excess to the center and eroded areas to "level" it up. I made a few finish passes with the box at slight angle to crown the surface.
I plan on putting down an additional 4" of road bond during the spring time.
After trying many of the suggestions online about fixing this issue I figured out the quickest way to recover.
1. Do a unencrypted Time Machine Backup
2. Goto recovery mode and completely format the startup drive and set for normal (non encrypted) journaled file system.
3. Restore backup
Thats it the quickest way to resolve the issue without completely reinstalling.
I purchased a 2010 Dodge Ram 2500 HD Laramie this weekend. On the way home I wanted to delieve deeper into what I had just purchased and was shocked at the lack of documentation. I had owned newer fords or older dodges so getting handed a key FOB to start the truck was a bit shocking. They do give you a user manual and a DVD but I was unable to locate several things and figured out some more just by trial and error. Below is a list of tricks, tips, and hints as well as some things I can't figure out. If you have a solution please drop me a line.
After hours of head scratching and lots of rope pulling on my 025 I finally found a simple explanation for why it suddenly stopped starting. I've replaced the fuel lines, new filters, new plug etc. I even cleaned it all out, cleaned the magneto, and checked gap. It ended up being a loose connection at the spark plug wire connector. They use a spring on a barb and it had come loose on the boot. You basically push the wire thru the boot and re spear the barb. I also took the extra step of soldering the wire to the spring. Hope this helps somebody else.
I've been playing with radio propagation the past few weeks. This is a propgation estimate for 2.4Ghz from the Cowee Tower site towards Sylva.
At about the age of eight I remember waking up on Christmas morning and strolling into the living room to see a white Tandy box that would change my life forever. I remember it like it was yesterday. A while box was propped up in the living room along with a joystick, tape drive, and printer. I had wanted a microcomputer for over a year and now I finally had one. Over the next year I learned the basic language and got to experience my first twenty four hour or greater stints of uninterrupted programming. I remember days of digging through those Tandy catalogs and dreaming. An avid subscriber to Rainbow magazine, first BBS operator in my area, among other things.
I recently had to revive a ML850. Having lots invested in docking these I figured I might as well document what I had to do and take some pics to hopefully ease the pain of others. First to disassemble these you have to remove the bottom "pan" from the unit. The only two hidden screws are underneath the battery. You only need to take out the case screws and not the rubber cover screws. At the front of the pan there is a place to place a small flat head screwdriver to gently pry the pan off. The pan also has a wire that needs to be disconnected.
Dark water diving initially to me was night diving. I have done a few dives in semi clear water with the worst being a few feet of visibility. Recently we did a training dive at Bear Lake and I got to experience what dark water diving was like. It was a sunny day, as we descended with our lights. At about 20' it was almost pitch black and I needed a light to see anything. As we went further down on the anchor line visibility went to near 0. I could not see my hand or anything else for that matter. Even with my trusty dive light there