RZR S 1000 PRP GT SE Seats Installed
Quick video of PRP GT SE Seats I installed in my Polaris RZR S 1000. Other than locating bolts it's a painless install of the seats. I'll be installing 5 point harnesses as well which will involve some fabrication.
Long term review of the Grizzly G4003 Lathe and some bonus footage of the 3617 Mill.
I needed a generator for a weekend camping trip and after some quick research located a locally sourced (Walmart) unit that would be somewhat of a gamble. It is a Powermate 2000i. Specs show output to be 2000 watts surge and 1600 watts continuous. I couldn't find much info other than a pulsar brand review which appeared to be the same unit. After picking it up and getting oil in it (they even gave me a funnel) I was pleasantly surprised to its quality, low sound, and output. I've used it now for 2 weekend trips and have purchased another unit that I'll be operating in parallel now that its A/C weather. The parallel connections are standard banana jacks but I'll likely rig up a dead man style direct to 50A plug for convenience and keep a sense of danger with me while camping. I'll likely show that as well but its a use at your own risk type of thing.
Installation and review of the Polaris RZR S 1000 Heat Shield Recall. Overall it appears to redirect any fuel spilled in the bed. The shield behind the seat is improved with a rolled edge where the old shields tended to melt the interior foam.
I recently purchased a Massey Ferguson GC 1720 TLB Sub Compact Tractor. Below is a video of what I've learned so far. I'm very happy with it and it's made some quick work of some job's I wouldn't even attempt by hand. I have previously owned several tractors and this model in particular has some really nice features compared to older units. Attachment swap out is very easy and I frequently remove the backhoe to swap on 3 point attachments. Power of the machine goes above and beyond what's expected from a sub-compact tractor. Pin storage is a really nice feature as well as the new high seat position. It makes seeing the loader bucket much easier. The integrated work light is also a very nice touch.
Gravel, Winter GC-1720
About 12 years ago I constructed a 285 foot gravel drive down to my shop with a Massey Ferguson 1250. It was smooth enough to get cars, trucks, and trailers down with ease. Over the years I maintained it by keeping the crown cut and compaction of the travel lanes broken up. Last year the erosion of the left track outran my maintenance and it became a 4x4 only drive. I recently aquired a GC-1720 Sub-Compact Tractor to fix an maintain the property.
The first step in the revitalization of the drive way was to use a 5 foot rotary cutter to remove all the growth next to the driveway. That also required some some backhoe work to remove some of the larger root systems of bushes and trees.
I used a 4 ft box blade at a forward angle making 2-3 trips over the same area to break up the existing gravel. This process filled many of the pot holes and some of the left track. Areas that had not been washed out, the road-bond (Gravel / Fines) looked fresh with the vegetation removed.
With a box-blade, it just requires patience to get the ground broken up especially with a sub compact tractor. I was using a new Massey Ferguson GC-1720 TLB. Lesson's learned on the GC-1720 TLB below:
- 4 Ft Box Blade is the Max.
- 5 Ft Scraper Blade is ideal.
- 4 Ft Rotary Blade is ideal.
- Backhoe Float takes getting used to but it does wonders for flat ditches/trenches and for leveling fill. I really like it.
- No 3 Pt position control. This hasn't been an issue per say but took a day or so of getting used to. The 3 points works like a normal hydro spool. There is a down valve to help with controlling flow on downward action of the 3 point.
- The seat transition is hit or miss. Sometimes it does exactly what you intend and other times its a downright PIA.
- Fuel consumption is great. About 6 gallons for two days work.
- Backhoe removal is less than 10 minutes. Surprisingly easy and fast. Just watch where you put the hydro lines.
- PTO shaft has a plastic cover with 13MM (1/2") Screws that need to be removed to use the PTO.
Once the ground was un-compacted the box can be leveled and its easy to pull a full box wherever you need it. The GC 1720 doesn't have positional control but does have control of the lower speed. You just have to be careful with bringing the blade back up as it is always full speed.
I did ditch cutting by putting the box blade at a sharp angle and "driving the ditch". After cutting ditch areas down I used the front end loader to move excess to the center and eroded areas to "level" it up. I made a few finish passes with the box at slight angle to crown the surface.
I plan on putting down an additional 4" of road bond during the spring time.
After trying many of the suggestions online about fixing this issue I figured out the quickest way to recover.
1. Do a unencrypted Time Machine Backup
2. Goto recovery mode and completely format the startup drive and set for normal (non encrypted) journaled file system.
3. Restore backup
Thats it the quickest way to resolve the issue without completely reinstalling.
I purchased a 2010 Dodge Ram 2500 HD Laramie this weekend. On the way home I wanted to delieve deeper into what I had just purchased and was shocked at the lack of documentation. I had owned newer fords or older dodges so getting handed a key FOB to start the truck was a bit shocking. They do give you a user manual and a DVD but I was unable to locate several things and figured out some more just by trial and error. Below is a list of tricks, tips, and hints as well as some things I can't figure out. If you have a solution please drop me a line.
After hours of head scratching and lots of rope pulling on my 025 I finally found a simple explanation for why it suddenly stopped starting. I've replaced the fuel lines, new filters, new plug etc. I even cleaned it all out, cleaned the magneto, and checked gap. It ended up being a loose connection at the spark plug wire connector. They use a spring on a barb and it had come loose on the boot. You basically push the wire thru the boot and re spear the barb. I also took the extra step of soldering the wire to the spring. Hope this helps somebody else.