Doom, Haimer Repair & Vise Jaws Part 3
Fixing issues while making some vice jaws.
I have a Excel PMC 5V20 Vertical Machining Center with a Fanuc OM control. Keys below the CRT were busted and damaged. After purchasing a new keysheet, I verified fitment. The keysheets for the Fanuc are glued on and need to be removed and reapplied.
After cleaning the front of the Fanuc bezel, I replaced the keysheet and the control looks like brand new. In conclusion, I’m really happy with the results and the PCB board is again protected from coolant and other contaminates.
About 12 years ago I constructed a 285 foot gravel drive down to my shop with a Massey Ferguson 1250. It was smooth enough to get cars, trucks, and trailers down with ease. Over the years I maintained it by keeping the crown cut and compaction of the travel lanes broken up. Last year the erosion of the left track outran my maintenance and it became a 4×4 only drive. I recently aquired a GC-1720 Sub-Compact Tractor to fix an maintain the property.
The first step in the revitalization of the drive way was to use a 5 foot rotary cutter to remove all the growth next to the driveway. That also required some some backhoe work to remove some of the larger root systems of bushes and trees.
I used a 4 ft box blade at a forward angle making 2-3 trips over the same area to break up the existing gravel. This process filled many of the pot holes and some of the left track. Areas that had not been washed out, the road-bond (Gravel / Fines) looked fresh with the vegetation removed.
With a box-blade, it just requires patience to get the ground broken up especially with a sub compact tractor. I was using a new Massey Ferguson GC-1720 TLB. Lesson’s learned on the GC-1720 TLB below:
Once the ground was un-compacted the box can be leveled and its easy to pull a full box wherever you need it. The GC 1720 doesn’t have positional control but does have control of the lower speed. You just have to be careful with bringing the blade back up as it is always full speed.
I did ditch cutting by putting the box blade at a sharp angle and “driving the ditch”. After cutting ditch areas down I used the front end loader to move excess to the center and eroded areas to “level” it up. I made a few finish passes with the box at slight angle to crown the surface.
I plan on putting down an additional 4″ of road bond during the spring time.
Looking for something to play with I was the lucky bidder on a non-working IC-208H ICOM Dual Bander radio on Ebay. It looked ok but was listed as non-working. They also disclosed it would not power all. All of these things were correct. A more accurate description would have been “Used on the show Deadliest Catch but the boat sank to the bottom. Recovered 2 months later”.
I’m guessing it was installed on a boat and wouldn’t surprise me if said boat was at the bottom when this radio was removed. The head unit was in great shape so not a complete loss.
Since there was severe damage from the apparent reverse hookup and water damage it wasn’t something I could or would repair. I did end up with some spare parts, a good IC-208H head, new power cord, and a working Mic.
The mic connector was completely trashed with green tented heavy corrosion. Inside both side of the board had been exposed to water and dirt. Even without the badly damaged PCB craters it was deemed a lost cause as soon as I opened the case. Stay tuned for a teardown of the IC-208H head unit as this appears to be in great shape and I want to see if and how it ticks before parting with it.
Teardown video of a beaten down ICOM IC-208H. I’d really like to know what this radio has seen.
Wouxun’s seem to either wear the flash chip out or are made with a bad batch of parts. Eventually all of them I’ve owned prior and everyone I know throws it in the trash. Below is a video of how to do the repair and its an easy fix. Wouxun used a very low write count part but there are better options as a direct replacement. The replacement part is a 24C64 found just about everywhere for under $1. Please repair these when possible and if you are unable or unwilling, hand it over to a new ham or send to an old one to be repaired.
I recommend using a hot air station but it is possible to carefully cut leads with cutters for parts replacement. When using cutters be sure to not rip any traces from the board. Go very slow and use a good tool. An alternative method is to heat and lift one lead a time. Mouser and Digikey both have alternatives for this part by searching for the 24C64. Right now links to these parts are as follows:
I came across a DR-635 that was dead. After removing the panels it was clear that the pre amp IC had failed. Note that the heatsink comes out of the board thru a slot for cleanup. Below are pictures of the repair. I used solder paste and a hot air station to repair the unit after initial trace and PCB repair using superglue (Don’t breath fumes). Parts were purchased from Alinco.
I recently purchased this Tempo 2020 HF radio to rebuild. I plan to start this project after the TS-430S is finished.
Yahoo Tempo Group (Very Useful) http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TEMPO_2020/
KX4OM Tempo 2020 Repair pages http://www.kx4om.com/TechSolutions/Tempo2020_repairs/2020.html
After getting thru most of the alignment I’ve moved onto the PLL. The board appeared to be in good shape visually but after doing the first initial checks at TP1 I realized there was a problem. After carefully removing it I noticed a small gouge on the edge of the board which had broken trace connectivity. I repaired that with a small bit of foil and solder. I also realized that the caps had been replaced by the previous owner with larger volt caps which normally doesn’t cause an issue except the fit was too tight and smaller 10V caps are of preference on this board so they fit nicely. I continued on after removing the caps and ordering parts from Mouser to replace the large 50V rated caps with the 10V. So more waiting.
After replacing the caps and a complete the alignment the TS-430S now works at least as well as it did new.
I made it a bit deeper into the TS-430S this weekend. While checking the alignment, it was clear there was an issue with the RIT. It didn’t seem to work and I wasn’t seeing what I should have been at D5. After looking around a bit on the board I found that VR3 was working sometimes and sometimes not depending on what mood it was in. After replacing VR3 I wasn’t getting a proper RIT 9mhz signal but everything is more consistent now. I noticed the dreaded glue around the 9mhz osc which concerns me and I’m very suspicious of that area. When I have time next step is to remove all the glue from that area and try and determine if that has something to do with RIT not functioning.
07/24/2011 After deeper inspection of the glue area it became very apparent that X6 (9mhz) was no longer connected to the board. The leads had broken off right at the PCB. I’ve spent some time trying to source a replacement. Hopefully I’ll locate one soon.
08/01/2010 The control board now checks out with the 9mhz replacement. On to the PLL board.
I’ve been doing some clean up on the filter unit for the Kenwood TS-430S HF radio. Some bands were not working and the filter unit was suspect. I had already tried the prescribed 12 V DC current treatment without any changes on the bands that weren’t working. I noticed several bad joints and manually disassembled each relay and checked its operation. At least two of them were not making good connections and required cleaning with some contact cleaner and a dollar bill. After this cleaning they seem to be working. I also noticed several bad solder joints. Here is some photos of the board.
07/14/2011 – After removing the IF board from the TS-430 I could see some issues right off hand. The top site of the board was realitivly clean although I noticed some excess thermal compound on the regulators which gave me a hint that this IF board had been repaired at some point. Getting it out I could see lots of oxidation, burn traces at one of the regulators and at least one connect that had ripped the traces from the board. Tonight I cleaned up much of the board tested all the diodes on the rear of the board, and repaired the 5V traces. At this point the radio seems to work but I don’t have very good recieve and it still only transmits on some bands. On the bands it does transmit on it does full output which is a good sign. I’ll be working on the IF board for the next few days as its in bad shape on the rear side.
07/18/2011 – Well thus far, I have replaced the traces on the 5V regulator with jumpers as the eyelets were missing and that area of the board wasn’t in very good shape. I also located a burnt or gouged trace which will need repair. A missing eyelet was found on Connector 10 and I ended up glueing the connector to the board and replacing the trace with a wire. After looking at the board from the top I’ve noticed several missing caps. I expect someone has tried to repair this board and during checking cold solder joints they may of pushed the caps off the board without noticing.
07/19/2011 The gouged trace has been repaired. Now the IF section seems to be working at least a stage or two away from the audio section. I ended up with a TX issue which was a bad connection at the molex connector which slowed progress on the IF board issues.